Written by Taylor Nettnin
When you think of Brazil, you may automatically think of Carnaval or the amazing beaches of Rio, but Brazil is so much more than that. I found this out firsthand when Owen Deutsch invited me to assist him on his most recent birding expedition through several municipalities in the Brazilian state of Espírito Santo during a 10-day expedition, where we spotted dozens of endemic birds and gorgeous landscapes. I’m a photojournalist and digital technician with a deep appreciation for nature, so I was excited to get out there and experience my first multi-day birding trip. I am no stranger to Owen’s photos since I have been his photo manager for the past 3 years. We were accompanied by Owen’s bird guide Steve Huggins, his friend Mike Felz, also a talented nature photographer, plus incredibly experienced local guides, such as Hudson Martins Soares (BirdsRio), in the various reserves we visited. We mostly went to areas not typically frequented by tourists, so we were able to truly experience life in Brazil. From the vast Atlantic Rainforest to the beautiful architecture seen driving through different towns, and the delicious carved meats served at buffets often attached to gas stations, we conquered it all!
When you’re on a trip specifically to go birding, expect long days! Sunup to sundown, sometimes later if you’re looking for owls. I found it was important to wake up at least 30 minutes earlier than I would normally so I could give myself time to stretch and get my body prepared for the long day ahead. Long hikes on often uneven ground can make you very sore, but standing in the same spot for extended periods of time waiting for a specific bird to appear can hurt even more! Breakfast is equally as important when setting out for a long day; you need to eat properly to give yourself enough fuel to power through until lunchtime. We would often have breakfast between 5:30 a.m. and 6:00 a.m., which was usually a lovely selection of fresh fruit, eggs, pão de queijo (cheesy bread balls), a variety of delicious pastries, and fresh squeezed juice.
The biodiversity was unlike anything I could see at home in Chicago, Illinois. It’s important that you stop and take a moment to appreciate the beautiful scenery you’re immersed in. It’s not every day that a city girl like me gets to step foot in the Atlantic Rainforest, so it was important for me to truly take in the beautiful biodiversity and endemic wildlife. We specifically chose Espírito Santo so we could explore the Atlantic Rainforest in the Southeast, and while the habitat has experienced severe loss, there are a plethora of reserves that are focused on preserving wildlife and reforestation. I listened to our guides and asked questions about what exactly I was looking at along the way.
At the Reserva Natural Vale in Linhares, one of the largest protected areas of the Atlantic Rainforest, we were greeted by capuchin monkeys before we saw our first bird. In addition to learning about the ways in which they have adapted these areas to make them safer for the precious species that live there, we learned they had built canopy bridges to protect tree-dwelling monkeys and various other wildlife from getting hit by cars while crossing traffic; these look like little rope bridges, tubes, and even tree trunks connecting trees over roads. They’ve been proven to work, with traffic-related deaths plummeting and species safely repopulating!
Red-billed Curassow
It’s a huge adrenaline rush when the first bird you spot on the first day of a 10-day trip is the Red-billed Curassow, an endangered bird endemic to Espírito Santo. Then you look up and see at least a dozen species of incredibly colorful birds soaring above you, much different from the LBJ’s (little brown jobs, an informal name for small brown passerines) seen at home! You see flashes of gold, turquoise, green, and maroon flying in every direction, landing on trees all around you. You also marvel at the massive palms, pines, and ferns growing around you, wondering why your little houseplant version of them won’t stay alive while they’re clearly thriving over here. It’s hard not to feel at home when you’re surrounded by beautiful birds and gorgeous scenery.
To no surprise, the language barrier was tricky. I picked up a couple of books to learn conversational Portuguese, but I forgot everything when faced with actual Portuguese speakers. One of our guides only spoke Portuguese, but the beauty of being on this trip with the sole purpose of finding birds is you find ways to communicate through your excitement. This specific guide would locate a bird, show us the scientific page of the species, and simply ask “Lifer?” to figure out if we wanted to see them.
At the gorgeous Pousada Vita Verde in Santa Teresa, the hummingbirds were plentiful. I could even see them when I opened my bedroom window! Not to mention the view from the breakfast nook was breathtaking. A picture is worth a thousand words, but you need more than a thousand words to describe exactly how beautiful this location was. After exploring the grounds and seeing dozens of fabulous hummingbirds, including the Black Jacobin, Brazilian Ruby, Frilled Coquette, and White-vented Violetear, we ventured to the forest connected to the grounds. Seeing a flash of red hiding in a sea of branches, we spotted the Swallow-tailed Manakin. We also caught a glimpse of the Crescent-chested Puffbird, a Near Threatened species known for its cinnamon streaks and black-and-white breast band.
Our last stop was to the Reserva Kaetés in Vargem Alta to try to spot the Critically Endangered Cherry-throated Tanager. There are estimated to be around 20 of this species left, and there is at least one specifically that’s been banded and spotted around the reserve recently. The scientists who monitor this area are highly skilled at picking up its behavior and guide us to the best spots to sit and wait. The best viewing area is a large observation tower that sits 37 meters (121 feet) tall, comparable to an 11-story building. The Cherry-throated Tanager is known to like tall trees, so what better way to see them than being at the same height as the trees? After 2 full days in the tower, we sadly couldn’t spot it, but we still saw so many wonderful birds and gorgeous landscapes, it wasn’t a bummer at all!
Overall, this is a trip that any nature enthusiast should try to take at least once in their life! I’m a photojournalist specializing in events, but I was thrust into the birding world when I started working with Owen Deutsch. My love for beautiful landscapes has grown into an appreciation for birds, and I want to do my part to help protect their habitats and spread the word about these amazing reserves that are working to reforest these areas that have seen significant loss.
Shots from this trip coming soon!
